Chosen Solution
My Philips 55PUS7101/12 is exactly 3 years old and the screen just stopped working. I still get sound and light from the Ambilight. Can I order any part and solve this by myself?
Update with pics from Multimeter 10/9/2019
Goes from 65.5 to almost 0
Power is on Update 14/9/2019 (CN9101)
Update 3/10/2019 3 images of Main Board
1 image of the power to LED/Ambiligt
Thanks!
Marcus Sätherström when you turn your TV on and you have sound indicating that you are on a valid channel, shine a flashlight beam at an angle against the screen . See if you can make out shapes etc. If so it is your backlight that may have failed. If not then it is time to remove the back from your TV and take a look at the boards. This can be a power board as well as a main board issue. Take some good pictures and post those with your question, that way we can see what you see . Also, on your T-con board is a fuse. With your TV on, check the fuse to see if there is power on it (12VDC). Try not to shorten out any pins while checking on a live TV :-) Adding images to an existing question UPDATE 09/08/2019 Marcus Sätherström the fuse is the one with the red arrow on it. Use your meter in ohm mode and place one probe on either side of the fuse (blue arrows) and watch your meter. If you have continuity it will move the needle (analog) or move from a high value to 0 (depends on your meter). If you have continuity, check for power (yellow arrows). With the TV on place the red probe on one of the points on the fuse and the black probe to ground with your meter in VDC mode. You should have around 12V on it.
Update (10/08/2019)
Marcus Sätherström page 46 would be of interest. See if you can use it to narrow it down further Philips-QM16.3E_LA_part-1.pdfPhilips-QM16.3E_LA_part-3.pdfPhilips-QM16.3E_LA_part-2.pdf
Hi! Try to disconnect the 51 pin ribbon cable from the T-con board! If you have than color screen looping(white, red, blue, green), than there is a problem with that cable! I‘ve got the same problem, and I solve it with an eraser. I put it on the connection by the T-con Board, and screw back the metal plate! It pushes the connector down, and the picture is back! This is a permanent fix, I don’t know how long it will be, but it cost‘s you „nothing“!
For us it seems to be the logic board, the one with the HDMI connectors. The power board feeds the logic board and the logic board provides the power to the middle board what should feed the backlight. 2/3 boards replaced now. All 3 boards replaced. No go:( a well, worth the shot
