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Judging from the picture it would seem like either the defrost is not long enough or the temp sensor is out of spec. Your heater is fine, no ice near it and the hi limit is attached so we know it is good as well. If it were door gaskets you would have condensation on the walls and shelves before it made it to the evaporator. Honestly, these fridges are finicky and i have fixed this issue by just replacing the back panel as an assembly (DA97-12608A) I would do this before replacing assembly as its the least likely and pretty pricey part. Replace the sensor, it is a cheap attempt (DA32-10104N) before going to the control (DA94-02679D), i am not 100% sure but i want to say they had to increase the defrost times and there is not a way to do that yourself but have to have a new board with the new programing. Good luck
Hi @ssearles , Just to eliminate any other problems that may be causing/contributing to what is happening, try running the Self-diagnostic function during normal operation and check for any error codes. The error code list and meanings are on the next page in the service manual. Do not be confused by the model number of the refrigerator at the top of the pages as the manual is also for your model. - see page 1. Is the compressor running continually trying to cool the fridge down? Low refrigerant usually results in cooling problems e.g. freezer/refrigerator too warm not ice build up. Maybe check for any oily residues on the condenser coils and on or under the compressor. There is a special oil mixed in with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor and if there is a leak then the refrigerant will escape to the air undetected but the oil may leave a trace. Although after all this time if there was a leak the refrigerant should have all been gone by now ;-) Did the technician measure the low and high side pressures of the sealed system? The pressures will indicate if the amount of refrigerant is correct and also if there are any restrictions in the sealed system. Sometimes a restriction in the system can cause ice build up on the other side of the restriction in the refrigerant flow path. If parts are required search online for RF28HDEDTSR parts to get results for suppliers that suit you best. Hopefully a start.
Seems like, there is no 100% solution on how to fix ice build-up on the Samsung fridge permanently. According to this website, it caused by temperature fluctuations and somehow by water condensation, which becomes ice. So, no permanent fix for my fridge as well
One of my air conditioners has the same issue with ice forming near the coils and requires defrosts. I haven’t figured it out yet but I can offer you some possible ideas. It could be a defect in the thermostat, causing the compressor to work at full power constantly, leading to frozen coils.A. Condensation or water collecting somewhere it shouldn’t. If water is near the coils it freezes. This problem then starts to compound, as the frozen coils then start to prevent air flow throughout and the chunks of ice grow larger. It gets worse until the compartment turns into a self-contained chunk of ice that must be defrosted. Checking to see if the fridge is level may help. If it sags in a certain direction that could potentially prevent water buildup from draining.B. Air flow restricted somewhere or fan malfunction. If the fan is not working properly, the air will not circulate where necessary. Also, proper fan function helps prevent excess humidity in the compartment. These things contribute or can be the cause of problem A. Some band-aid temporary solutions that can help might be putting spray wax or some other type of hydro-repellant on the coils. Or a moisture absorber like salt around that area. Or putting a small fan or an appliance that tends to generate excess heat near refrigerators vents. Note that these probably won’t fix the problem but it can minimize it.
I had the same problem. I decided to change the upper temperature sensor based on a recommendation from another website. I was able to get the part for under $10 from McCombs Supply in Lancaster, PA. I saw a YouTube video on how to change the sensor. When I did the work I found that the top end of the sensor was covered with a black tar substance that appeared to have oozed down from above. This substance may have caused the problem since the sensor was not clean so it would not be sensing properly. Perhaps the substance softened up during transport from China? I just changed out the part yesterday so I don’t know if the problem is actually fixed. Just wanted to make the community aware of the black substance that could be interfering with proper upper cabinet temperature sensing.
I’ve a question: having gone through the taking off of the cover and defrosting, and applying the fixes, should the fan turn on automatically when I test power up the unit? How do I know if I’ve a faulty fan? Thanks
You guys might want to join the Samsung recall group since people are getting refunds even on older units. If you have tried everything on the Samsung Service Bulletin already then you might want to check out this: https://youtu.be/hU1S8zQgebM
I found a great solve from Ben’s appliance and junk on u tube. I bought his kit and will hope to install this weekend. He seems to be addressing all of my issues…water under the cold cut tray, ice build up behind back wall. https://youtu.be/So1Zf-yIj94
I have fixed this problem by avoiding to replace the freezer drain clip stock part but with a length of copper wire wrapped around the defrost element in the freezer compartment and down the drain line. stopping the defrost water from over running and freezing in the lower compartment. Freezer compartment rear panel removed.
You most likely have either a bad defrost timer or one of the thermostats are bad! None of these was even mentioned but will cause the issue that you are experiencing! Your refrigerator has a defrost timer. It can be found behind the refrigerator’s lower kickplate, in the refrigerator’s control panel, or on the back wall. Four metallic terminals extend from the bottom of the defrost timer. Once you have found it, remove the timer. Here is the video for replacing the thermosts (Both Fridge, and Freezer); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ4YOjGq… The heater coil you said was replaced. Here is the video for replacing the heater coil (Just in case) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPJM0TCa…
Hi Scott, are you defrosting the cover aswell? You can takoff the fan by unmounting 4 screews holding it on the cover. In my case there was also a significant amount of ice in the venting channels. While there are isolated it might take a while for the ice to defrost. With the chennels cloged the ice would build up much faster on the heat exchange ribs. Hope this is a help. Regards, Luke
When you claim that they changed the entire assembly, I’m curious.Which component number did they swap out? There is a Facebook group called SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RECALL U.S.A. NOW with approximately 100,000 members if you want to learn more about this. This is a typical issue with these devices. After five years of flawless operation, I’m still attempting to pinpoint why this occurs. In five years, something had to change. This group has informed me that there is dampness in the refrigerator’s walls and that it really can’t be mended.However, I can’t say for sure that this is true. Moisture is causing the top of the evaporator to freeze up, which then hits the fan as a block of ice. The ice expands till it generates noise by striking the fan. But it’s not just the noise. The fan will stop when the ice block is big enough, and the refrigerator won’t run again until the ice is gone. I have done a lot of reading and talked to some technicians about all of this.
I can understand your frustration and understand why are you getting ice buildup on your evaporator cover panel and after doing checks and replacing parts you are still having problems I’m having the same on the back evaporator cover is frosted over and I hear my evaporator motor making noise also. My evaporator fan motor is working properly but after defrosting it will take about six hours until I hear that noise coming from the evaporator fan and I have ice buildup on the back panel. After diagnosis and checking all the sensors to relays the motor and the heater power working properly and yet I’m still having this problem. And by trying to put insulation to warm up your upper part of your freezer is not really a fix for the problem or to figure out what is the problem after thinking I come to a conclusion I am still getting water condensation buildup I’m back panel and after looking and thinking about this problem I’ve come to realize on my GE French door refrigerator I have an icemaker which requires water to make the ice obviously and after inspecting the icemaker I noticed a small leak coming from the line going into the icemaker going down the back wall which was causing my problem…. I am not a service technician and I don’t know too much about Samsung but for the GE that I have that was the cause of the problem it was very hard to detect especially when the icemaker was in place and only after I had everything removed I noticed.. I hope this helps.
Hi Guys, This works. Permanently stop your Samsung French door refrigerator from freezing and icing up - Super Cheap Fix! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5beJp8a… Dosn’t help with law suits etc but it fixed mine. Kind Regards Den
I watched a YouTube the guy put weather stripping along the inside of the back wall / the part that comes off, he also put spray foam over the n shape pipes where there was ice he said it fixed his. Mine also does this, but there are Manual defrost buttons you can Google for instructions but on my ice maker I push fridge & freezer hold them down til it beeps & keep pushing freezer til it says RD refrigerator defrost & it will melt the ice itself. But should do this every wk or 2 to prevent bad ice build up & melt it before it gets to much. That’s what I’ve been doing lol
Hi - PROBLEM SOLVED We have had the same problem with ice build up, was freezing up everyvday so we unscrewed the back lower section and unplugged it to remove completely, checked and tested the thermostat with a multi meter and readings were fine, we then checked the defrost element which showed no readings and replaced it with a new element exactly the same as the one we had taken out which we bought for £15 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311631166693?…
